Chiavari, Portofino, and Rapallo

Classic Portofino

As we headed south to ultimately end up at Levanto we planned to stop in to Portofino, a well-known place for A list celebrities. I guess we saw one there, a popular soccer player with his pregnant wife since they were covered online the next day in a local paper.  They were just taking photos up near the church on the hill in Portofino.

On place to stay was Chiavari, a beautiful city about 20 kms away from Portofino.

Chiavari

The place we stayed, Casa Olivia is up behind Chiavari in the hills overlooking the sea and our host Cristina was incredible at decorating. Both the B&B and her kitchen were right out of a decorating catalog. She works part-time in Genoa as a designer, and runs the B&B as well. She does a great job of both apparently.

A benefit of the bike is when we drove to Portofino we fit right in with the locals and parked in the moto parking area and with the bike cover on, they couldn’t see that we weren’t locals not like our friend with the Lamborghini who got a ticket and was towed.

Not his day

From there we toured the picturesque spot, took our required pictures and finally went out for a really nice lunch sitting right on the water. OK, meal prices are all increased by 4E just to sit here, but it’s something you have to do.

Lunch in Portofino

.

On our way there we stopped in Rapallo, another bustling

Rapallo Fort

place and saw the old Fort that protected the harbor. The weather was perfect and later in the afternoon we enjoyed the private deck that came with our room. It was very enjoyable.  

View from Sestri Levante to Portofino

Old Guys Corner

The next day on the way to Levanto we stopped to visit Sestri  Levante a larger centre that has quite an Italian tourist draw. It is a pretty place that we will come back to. While there we noticed a group of old guysbegin gathering at a favorite beach spot, hidden under some trees behind the change area of one of the beach resorts, they come every day to visit. What a nice place!

Neck Muscles

I was intrigued by the strength of this African migrant worker carrying her wares, amazing.

Fort De Bard

Fort De Bard

Our next day was relaxing staying in Ivrea (Original home of Olivetti typewriters )

 and just doing some sightseeing. 

The castle/fort we visited was the backdrop for the movie Avengers – Age of Ultron filmed just recently.

Age of Ultron

The early fort was built and developed its claim to fame by withstanding first a 14 day attack by Napoleon in 1800 and then a siege which lasted until June 1st. Eventually it would fall and Napoleon destroyed the castle terming it the “villaneous castle de bard” because it was so formidable he did not want to have to conquer it again.

A few features were the enclosed staircases to protect soldiers movements, and for tourists now a 4 stage funicular which is free to ride and get a great view of the Aosta valley.

Enclosed Stairs for soldiers

Fenicular

After Napoleon’s fall the Fort was re-built between 1831- 1838 by the Savoy’s and eventually fell into dis-repair until the late 20^th century when it was restored again. It hosts many exhibitions and concerts in summer.

Similar in nature to Entreavaux in France, this Fort controlled access to the Aosta valley and was therefore a point where a travel tax could be collected for anyone wanting to move goods across the Alps and of course to defend access.

Aosta Valley

On our way back Sandra said to stop at a Suzuki car dealer since she saw a neat sports car in a window. We did stop and were captured by an eclectic collection of personal cars owned by the dealer. 

Original Audi Quattro dating from 1980, notice the styling to the VW Scirroco of the same era our son had a 1981 Scirroco gifted to him by his aunt.

The History of Suzuki - Coincidentally I drive an Audi quattro (a5), and ride a Suzuki V Strom

A Beautiful MG, for Brit car lovers

FRANCE Lacets, Col de Madelaine, Col de Pt. St. Bernard

Decorations from the Tour De France TDF

The next morning we got up earlier and the day was fresh. The day was perfect for riding. We made our way south to the Lacets du Montvernier

Lacets Vertical

(Stage 20 I believe in TDF 2015) We watched the Tour De France (TDF) a lot while I began to get back in shape. The road is a set of hairpins that wind up the face of a cliff and resemble a pair of shoe laces, hence the name. Needless to say we rode them.

Lovely from the Top

And this route was only 10 kms from the Col de Madelaine, a classic of the TDF. 

Just of the Top from the Col De La Madelaine 

2000 meters

Add Col de Petit St Bernard and we’d be in Italy the same day, not before covering almost 400 kms of twisties.

France – Annecy,

Annecy

Last year we travelled south into Italy via eastern France and I loved the scenery and roads, so we just set a couple of sights we hadn’t seen specifically and headed to them.

Annecy, a beautiful town, now tourist trap like Banff, sits on the edge of a Lake by the same name. It was extremely busy and of course we headed down into the core on a Sunday market day. The day was full of bright sun, hot at 33C, and we just kicked back and watched the world go by there.

In the morning sailboats

The afternoon Paddleboats

Canal from lake

Classic Annecy

Bridges in Eastern France

This is a Love Story

Mt. Blanc on a great day of riding

If you are not interested in motorcycling, adventure touring, love as it impacts a relationship, or dealing with cancer then read no further.  

I have to tell this story to move on.

This post covers the following:

·         50 Years of Motorcycling

·         43 Years of Marriage

·         15 years of Adventure Motorcycling together

·         And dealing with Cancer

This year is my 50^th anniversary of motorcycling. When I was 13 ½ yrs. old my parents took me to Europe. This was just after the Beatles hit North America and within that year I was in London and eventually Liverpool as well as western Europe and Soviet based Yugoslavia, yep 1964!  

By that time they had already taken me, my sisters and grandmother on a driving trip from Edmonton Alberta to Guadalajara Mexico. That was in 1958. I think my adventure genes were bred in to me don’t you think?  By the way, I nearly died on that Mexican trip, but that is another story. Actually I nearly died on the Europe trip to, and left my father in a hospital in Ireland and brought my mom home in a wheelchair.

My European distraction was all the scooters, mopeds that congregated at every street corner and raced off. How could I get one of these, and my dad began thinking. Later that fall he found a Suzuki 80 which was the make and size I had wanted, and I bought it and brought it home. You could licence under 100cc @14.  Who would think that would lead to this kind of behavior?  And my schooling excelled as well from the travel.

Six years into motorcycling, I met Sandra; we fell in love and were married before my 7^th season of riding.  I took her for rides on Sunday’s when we could. Sandra was a natural on the bike, and while I sold my bikes at different times for money to fund other projects I was never a season without one.  I taught both our kids to ride, and even rebuilt a father and son project bike and took my son riding as well.

Spin forward many years to 2000.

 I had restored a Wes Cooley replica

Suzuki and ridden it for a number of seasons. This was in the early days of Kijiji or Bargainfinder on-line. I told Sandra that I was going to sell the Wes Cooley and she asked what I would replace it with. I said I was bored and hadn’t really thought of a replacement. She emphatically replied “ No way, I don’t know you without a bike.”  

I admitted I had seen a Suzuki Katana 1100

in Rosemary, Alberta in Kijiji but I had made no enquiries. 2 Weeks later the bike was in my garage and within a year we had toured eastern Canada and the US.

After European trips in 2004 and 06 on rental BMW R1150RT’s we planned a 5 month retirement trip which was delayed until 2011 for family reasons. The 2011 trip is well documented in the archives here as are the 3 additional trips thereafter.

Spin forward to this year, coincidentally my 50^th season of riding.

CANCER should be a four letter word

After spending some of the winter in southern California

and getting in good shape for a spring Europe trip again this year I had booked and attended my annual physical, lab tests and then an ultrasound with the Doctor.

 I will never, ever forget walking back out of his office to the waiting area where Sandra sat, waiting. I told her the suspected diagnosis of kidney cancer, an extremely large tumor that would require a specialist to intervene, and more tests. Unpleasant tests. 

We drove home in  total silence, and sat dumbfounded. We cried, called our kids and families, and cried a lot more. This couldn’t be happening to us and yet it was. I saw the pain Sandra was in, but wait, it was me that had this cancer, no pain, it was probably just bad tests results right?  Talk about rationalizing/bargaining and then quickly coming to terms. Yep that was me, the change management specialist trying to manage change!  I was perfectly healthy I thought until they slid me from a gurney to an operating table, removed one kidney, cancer believed intact. The days that spanned the initial diagnosis, to the confirmation and operation spanned 3 weeks. Amazing by the stories we hear today on healthcare.  

During this time we were both restless, and didn’t sleep well, but the one treasure that I came to appreciate was every morning being able to kiss her “Good morning” and every night hug her good night.  I want this love to go on forever.

I could see how much this impacted her, her love manifesting itself in her emotions, thoughts and sharing with others and I made it my responsibility to relieve her pain by getting better fast. I needed to live for her as well. 7 Weeks later (they had told me 12 before I could do anything) the surgeon and GP both remarked on my recovery. I asked if I could consider travel again and they gave me the go-ahead. 

One of many special notes of thanks goes to Susan and Grant Johnson from Horizon’s Unlimited the adventure motorcycle travel website. Grant and Susan had gone through a similar experience with Prostate cancer and provided so much great information and direction for resources. Again the brotherhood of motorcycling coming through. The other special notes of thanks go to Dr. Johannes Olivier (GP) and Dr. Kevin Morrison (Urologist/Surgeon). Thanks for saving my life!  And to my son and daughter-in-law who surprised us the evening before my surgery by driving out from Calgary and supporting us both the day of and until I left hospital after visiting us only 2 weeks before.

This trip therefore is considered the bonus trip. Whatever happens next we will deal with it, but this 43 years of love is stronger than ever. Even cancer can be a love story. Hope you will continue to follow us.

43 years of Marriage 4 mths after surgery

Me and the DRZ

Me and the DRZ

 A funny thing happened this last year as I re-work to some extent what and where I/we ride.

Oh no fear, we haven't stopped our trips to Europe, no-sir-ree. But I had discovered that in comparison riding the highways of western Canada and the States to be boring and dangerous, too many egos, texting, cell phone use, and inattention by other drivers.

Then there are a few warning signs that really mean something if you are driving. First, I'd love to get the green symbol "N".

It appears that anyone with this symbol on the rear of their vehicle is allowed to drive over the speed limit, avoid stopping at stop signs, and can wave the middle finger (flipping the bird) at anyone they like with impunity.

Then there is the Poppy symbol on licence plates.

While I have always associated the poppy with Remembrance Day, and those who fought for our country, the new licence plate seems to be issued to those who are bent on increasing the 'fallen' by their inattention and lack of driving skill. Now, the Poppy takes on a warning to stay clear for fear of some calamitous action.

But I have digressed from the intent of this post which is to introduce a new motorcycle to love in my stable, the DRZ-400SM. No the SM doesn't stand for S&M, it stands for Super Motard, a niche design that pairs the frame/engine of a motocross bike with the street wheels and tires and accessories of a street bike. Suzuki pulls this off really well with the popular DRZ400, a 40 hp. 300 lb. rocketship.

I purchased this bike in early April and rode this summer on the island on all the back highways and trails with the street slicks that came with the bike. Then in preparation for taking the bike to southern California to ride with friends down there the bike had Kenda Knobbies installed front and rear.  Sandra has commented that every time I come back from a ride on the DRZ I have an ear to ear grin. It's true, I haven't met a bike that makes me smile more.

Combining in this case a mild case of boondocking in Coach-whip Canyon, an area of the Anza Borrego State Park south of Palm Springs and you can't believe you can get this far away from it all 2 hrs east of Los Angeles.

Boondocking

Coach Whip canyon

In this case we have taken our travel rig, an 07 GMC 4X4, coupled with our custom  8'6" camper, and gone off-road into Coach Whip canyon to get away from it all. When we were there the daytime temperatures were around 32-33 C, overnight it would cool into the low 20's, and you could find shade by camping close to the canyon rock walls.

After a ride up both legs of the coach whip I decided I'd get back on asphalt and head for Font's Point, a view point outside Borrego Springs about 4 miles back in through deep sand in the middle of the desert. On my way in I saw an abandoned Toyota Forerunner headed south. In the heat of the day I stopped, shut the bike off and called out in case someone was around and needed help. No answer. So I rode in to the canyon view point took some pictures and then headed back out. When I got near the Forerunner again I noticed it was now parked headed the opposite direction. Then on approaching I saw there was another vehicle hooking up to it, and a guy with an extreme sunburn. I mean extreme!!!!

Fonts Point (Click to enlarge)

His vehicle had blown a rad hose and left him stranded 3 miles into the viewpoint. And I was the only other person he saw all day, and vice versa. He had to walk out to the highway with no sun cover, and get cell phone reception, then get into Borrego Springs where he picked up his tow vehicle to pull the Fore runner back out. 

To Mexico

I had a much better day by comparison.

Sandra thought these were hikers until I used the zoom

Take 5 Welcome

Take 5 August 2014 Edition 
click on the picture to be taken to Take 5 magazine, 
the article begins on pg. 22

Welcome all Take 5 visitors to our web blog.

If you are here it’s likely because you were reading the article prepared by Take 5 magazine August Edition titled “Adrenalin Rush”. It will be a series that Marina Sacht, an adventurer herself, is hosting. We are just the first of many.

Since space is constricted in Take 5 we have copied the questions and answers below here for your reading. One key piece of information is that we live in Ladysmith, BC, and very proud of the community we live in. The  Transfer Beach amphitheater that the front page photo was taken at is one of the true gems and plays host to many summer activities, just like the 121BC amphitheater  photo featured in the Take 5 article.

If you are here to check out our blog as a result of the article please feel free to surf. The blog is organized based on dates, so the 2011 epic trip will be under the 2011 heading on the right hand column on the page, and so forth. It started in late April through September of that year. In short it was amazing and was once in a lifetime.

Our adventure travel without motorcycles can be navigated to at the top of the right hand column on the home page of the blog.

A 4:20 min. Youtube video featuring some 80 of our favorite pics from our 2011 trip can be accessed here.There are many more favorites now, but I have not created a video encompassing them yet. They are embedded in the blog pages for the different trips.

So please enjoy! If you have any questions please feel free to post them as comments at the bottom of the blog and we will respond as soon as possible to them.

Take 5 Q&A

What do you define as an “adventure?”

I think the textbook definition of adventure is well known as “an unusual and exciting, typically hazardous, experience or activity”. We’d like to be clear though that anything out of the ordinary would fall into that generalized definition. Adventure for us is much more demanding and includes a commitment to learn as much as we can and there is an element of risk that cannot be predicted and completely managed.

For us, adventure travel will take us outside our comfort zone, requires our skills and ability to self direct, and use self reliance to navigate the unknown whether it is our sailboat, motorcycle, bicycle or RV; whether it is in a foreign country, interacting in a foreign culture, understanding the language, or finding accommodation, and discovering the local foods and music. Adventure travel cannot be such if delivered on a tour, since the element of the unknown and uncontrolled factors are being managed by a tour director. That’s just travel!

What is the greatest adventure you have participated in?

Without a doubt our 5 month motorcycle trip to North Africa, Europe, eastern Europe, east of eastern Europe, and Turkey in 2011 is our largest single adventure that took us to 3 continents, 22,500 kms, 150 days, 18 countries, and over 180 World Heritage Sites on our own motorcycle which we shipped to Europe for the sole purpose. Achieving the satisfaction of seeing so many amazing places and being completely self-reliant, providing oil changes and service to our motorcycle on a schedule, coordinating ferry schedules, accommodation, seeking out authentic ethnic food experiences, swimming on the same beaches as the locals, are all part of it. You don’t accomplish that kind of travel or develop those skills and abilities overnight. It’s a building block process that allows you to learn from earlier travel lessons and develop the confidence to stretch yourself more.

Why is adventure important to you?

It allows us to learn and grow. Life is backwards sometimes, the skills and knowledge we have learned from adventure travel now, would have allowed us to advance our knowledge within a formal learning environment when we were in school.  Between Sandra and I we have learned so much in each foreign setting we have travelled in, that we just want to encourage others to travel the world and learn.

What is your favorite adventurous activity to do in the Central Vancouver Island area?

Sailing is something that actually brought us to Ladysmith. We used to haul our sailboat out to the Gulf Islands when our kids were small and gunk hole the islands for 3-4 weeks each year. Not many people from the prairies ever did that.

In 2009 we stretched ourselves by taking our trailerable sailboat up to the Broughton Archipelago and spent a month sailing down through the Discovery islands. We were fortunate enough to anchor off Alert Bay, BC. and be invited into the Longhouse of the 'Namgis peoples, for their Salmon Prince and Princess celebration in June. Experiencing First Nations traditional celebrations is no doubt a cultural adventure that everyone should pursue if you live here on Vancouver Island.  Explore the backcountry here.

Have your adventurous lifestyle been an asset or detriment to your personal/business relationships and how?

Our adventure travel has been extremely beneficial to us. When I was a Corporate security advisor of an Energy company the knowledge that I had from foreign travel allowed me to understand and make sound risk assessments for our business executives who would travel to other countries, and since retiring we have met many people, most much younger than us, that we have become real friends with. The photo of us in the Sahara desert was taken by an Italian husband and wife who were riding their motorcycles along with another couple. A minor motorcycle crash by one of them in the sand at that time allowed us to meet.  Now several years later they have a 1 yr. old son who we have travelled to Venice to see and continue to be part of their lives. It keeps us young by staying active in this fashion.

If someone was looking to add some zest to their lives what would you suggest?

That is such an individual choice. But if you want to learn to research adventure travel whether Two wheels or overland vehicle ( 4WD) then websites like Horizons Unlimited are great places to start. Rick Steves is an excellent resource for what he terms “Backdoor travel”. This is finding unique places that aren’t well known and enjoying them before they are overrun by tourism. Our latest trip in southern Italy allowed us to explore areas that only Europeans were travelling in when we were there. Many people were in disbelief when they saw the Canadian flag on our adventure motorcycle.

  

What do you future plans include?

Your right we aren’t done yet by any means. A friend, who we met when we “paid it forward” back in 2004, he was travelling to North America from Germany and we made him welcome in our home, has many times over repaid the favor. He would like us to travel to his hometown in northern Germany, and we plan to continue on to Scandinavia, and the Baltic coast and countries.

In addition, we really enjoyed our time in Southeast Asia particularly Cambodia and Hong Kong this past winter, so we have set new goals to see the Great Wall of China, Beijing and the Terracotta warriors. Our children and grandchildren are following in our footsteps of adventure travel/living and we will continue to visit them wherever they move and live around the world. Of course, we will find the adventure component to this travel, like we did in Cambodia by taking a bicycle trip of the Angkor Watt temples, and renting and driving all of Malaysia by ourselves, an experience not for the faint of heart.