Myra Tombs - St Nicholas’ Church - Side (seh - Day)

Myra Tombs

Our travels began in the heat of another south Turkish coast day. I was soaking wet from sweat before I even got on the bike at 9:00 am in the morning. 

Today we would close the loop on a chapter of folklore and history.

Back in 2006 when we travelled between Bari and Dubrovnik we visited St Nicholas’s church in Bari where he is buried. But this wasn’t really his home church, it was where his bones were buried after they were removed from Demre (Myra) during the Crusader wars (Knights of the Templar) and brought to Bari for fear that the Muslims would denigrate them. And St Nicholas wasn’t born in Demre, he was born down the road in Patara, but whose counting. Also on the way to Demre we stop and pay our respects to tombs just at the side of the road. And since today is my birthday I'm getting closer to needing one of these.

Look over my shoulder to see tombs

The church here was restored in the late 1800’s by King Nicholas of Russia and while we were there must have been 4-5 busloads of Russian tourists go thru the place.

St Nicholas

St Nicholas Church Altar

Fortunately the restoration work included a well thought out over-roof that helps shelter the ruins from direct sun and has saved many original frescos inside the remains of the church. Not sure if the tomb that is seen broken open is the one that had St Nicholas’ remains removed to Bari, but it was neat to see where they were from and where they have gone to.

St Nicholas Tomb broken open

Here's the biography of St. Nicholas. https://www.biography.com/religious-figure/saint-nicholas

Incredible detail in Myra Tombs

This town is also the location of the Myra tombs dating from the 5th century BC and called “house tombs” for they were built in house like settings by the Lycians. On the way, though there are more Tombs just off to the side of the road in many different places. 

Beaches everywhere

As well, you can see as we hit the coast again we come across small private beach after beach along the coast. As it was the weekend there were many people out at them.









And along the way is Mt Olympos, the original that has the eternal flame. The one in Greece doesn't.

Mt Olympos and the eternal Flame

Party boat and Beach super hot
  +42C @ 11:00 am

If you doubt what I have said about the heat just look at the sky in the photos of the party boat. You can just see how searing hot the sky is at that time, and that was before noon.

Entrance to Side

We finally arrived in Side, pronounced (se - Day), which means pomegranate in Turkish. As I was driving into the old town I was stunned to drive thru an amazing set of ruins and a stone wall that was partially opened to let us through.

Side was settled by the Greeks at first and there is the standard Temple of Apollo and Athena, ho-hum, it’s Sunday, look over there, another temple of Apollo. 

Apollo

Oh yes, and another remarkable theatre you can only see from the elevated seat of the motorcycle. It seated 15000 people. The town beach was busy in the searing heat and all you want to do is drink a beer and sit in your air conditioned room, it is that hot. We ate supper in front of the ruins of a huge gate to the city. This place is popular with German tourists for some reason. We are now re-thinking our route in light of the blistering heat and trying to choose a cooler route up in the mountains.

Battery suffers heart attack

Athena

It was so hot, we finally cooked the 5 yr old battery on the motorcycle. We were fortunate it happened after the battery cooled down from yesterday’s ride. Easily 47C air temp but another 6-8 C hotter on the pavement and the heat coming off the radiator. And the owner of the hotel, his uncle is the owner of the Suzuki shop in  Manganvet 5 kms away. A phone call and a guy was there on a scooter in 10 mins. ( I had diagnosed what was wrong already), took the battery away, tried to re-charge it, then came back with a replacement. Sandra and I just sat and had an extra long breakfast coffee while this took place and I paid for a new battery, not much different in price to what I’d have paid at home, and away we went. Talk about luck! The mechanic said that batteries only last 3 yrs in Turkey because of the heat. 


The ride from Side to Konya crossed a couple of high mountain passes (1838 Mtrs) was one of them. Very pretty scenery that could be compared to our Cascades but higher. As soon as you get back into this area heading toward Konya you are off the tourist trail and English is no longer an option. Back to hand gestures for things.

Road construction was rampant on this stretch as well and we came away from a 10 km gravel ride looking like we rolled in flour with the bike. The next morning in Aksaray, the guy at the service station started washing the bike while filling it with gas.

We finally stopped for the night in Aksaray, a medium size farming town of 89,000 people just about 30 kms. Away from Mt Hasan a currently dormant volcano. We stayed at a 4 star hotel for 55E with breakfast. This place was quite large and the café food was excellent where we had lambs shanks, rice and a tomato salad for supper. Because of the location, no alcohol can be served and this community is very conservative, even to the point of some services being delivered by horse and cart.

Xantos and Kas

We left Olu Deniz before it got too hot, yeah like we left when it was 28C and it likely got to 40C.

Oldest Lycian Tomb at Xantos

On our way to Kas we made a few stops one of them being the ancient World Heritage Site of Xantos now Kinik, only 1 km off the road. The route we are on right now closely parallels the Lycian way. You see the Lycians were an ancient culture that inhabited the area between Olu Deniz and Antalya near the coast dating back to 2500 BC. They were admired by the Greeks because they had established a democracy of 16 City states and didn’t go to war. Apparently they can be compared to the modern day Swiss culture. It wasn’t until the 2nd century BC that they adopted the Greek language. Before that it was an Indo-European language. The Lycian way was a trail they would use, kind of like the Appian way in Italy, which is still in evidence today. There is quite a trekking following for this route which covers some beautiful terrain.


At Xantos there are another set of ruins and we pulled in there to get an idea of the site and the oldest tomb sits up on a pedestal right off the theatre. We continued on to Kalkan where we spent some time scouting the place out. Our friends Mike and Ruby have bought a home there that can be used as a vacation rental. Kalkan is a very nice little town.

Hideaway Hotel rooftop view of Kas

On we went to Kas 

Kas Marina and beach

where we had booked our hotel, which had a pool, a roof top terrace for breakfast and dinner and lounging, and they loan out snorkelling gear. We ate out on the rooftop terrace last night. It was very pretty and a very nice hotel.

Breakfast on Terrace overlooking Greek Island of Metios

With a little lesson in the pool I got Sandra to try snorkelling with me and we headed to the local beach today and did some. Again so hot (40-42C) we laid in the water while sunning, and I spent a lot of time snorkelling. Man I wish I had my gear with me as the face mask would create a real pain after 10-15 mins. We did get a little red too.

Sandra snorkelling

Traditionally clad Muslim Women Swimming

Cute little kid and Hani Meli owners with Sandra

It was very interesting to see traditional Muslim women swimming fully clothed, not many but there were a few, and then a more normal Turkish Muslim family that was very close to us on the beach. We really enjoyed the interaction with their kids. The little girl pictured,  had quite the Abbey type personality. Tonight we’ll go out to a café we found that has a very nice older Muslim couple running it.




Yesterday I had the stuffed vine leaves for a snack at HanimeliTurkish Kitchen and they were great and together they explained how to make them. We have got to try it when we get home.


We then came back for supper the second night and had Turkish ravioli stuffed with lamb and covered in a garlic yogurt sauce. It was wonderful.Hani Meli Turkish Kitchen

Olu Deniz and Saklikent Gorge

Olu Deniz
photo courtesy of Mike and Ruby
(2 Canadians on Bikes) who kayaked and hiked to the top of
the hill to get this in 2006

It’s still very hot in this part of Turkey. We have been seeing 40 - 42C everyday. Our drive from Bodrum back down thru Fethiye to Olu Deniz had taken a different route. People we met in Bergama had recommended a place in Faralya, a small village outside Fethiye and Olu Deniz, and a place, the Onur Motel. So we headed in that direction. We past thru Olu Deniz, a very laid back beach town west and south of Fethiye and began to climb, and climb and climb. Finally we arrived at 1000Mtrs. On a road that would narrow to 1 lane due to cave ins, and absolutely blind corners, and no guard rails. Once there we found the Onur motel, a beautiful small place with about 8 cabins a pool and an outside dining room, and I noticed towels hanging from the railings of each and every cabin. Not a good sign. They confirmed that indeed they were full but to come back after the 17 July and they’d have a room for us. They were very helpful in trying to find other accommodation in the village but nothing that we’d be happy with, so we began to be concerned. Their explanation for how busy they were was that all Turks are on holidays now since Ramadan occurs in August and they won’t enjoy a holiday during Ramadan. Makes sense.

Villa Beldeniz pool

We head back to Olu Deniz and by this time it’s 3:00 pm and 42 C. After 1 strike out we try the Villa Beldeniz hotel  and they have a room. Excellent, just off from the pool, a large 2 bedroom room, with breakfast, fridge etc. and with our exchange being as favorable as it is for Canadians $69 a night.  After checking in showering and a dip in the pool we wander about town and realize that we were glad they didn't have a cabin in Faralya. This place is very close to paradise. Attached is a picture that Mike and Ruby took of the beach view. We couldn't get to the location in the heat that they did on their 2006 trip, so credit goes to them for the great picture. We have stayed 2 nights. Last night we ate out at the Cloud 9 restaurant. It lived up to its name. Right on the beach, with a beautiful sunset, white linen tablecloths, roses on the table, professional waiters, excellent presentation of food and get this for $10 Canadian each, and delicious food. Our waiter got a big tip for his service with us. Truly remarkable.

What a great time

Today we decided to skip the Lycian tombs here since it was so hot and go straight to Saklikent gorge a Maligne Canyon/Johnstone Canyon type of location but with a Turkish twist. You see in Turkey they let you get access to everything, so instead of walking a walkway and viewing from a railing you can actually wade thru the water, walk up the canyon base to the headwaters etc, all in your bathing suit, for the equivalent of $2.50 Canadian. Sandra wore her bathing suit under her riding gear since it was a 60 km drive one way with crazy Turkish drivers trying to run you off the road. Neither of us wore our sandals which would have simplified things but it didn’t matter we walked the total gorge and came back and everything dried out including runners in about 20 mins. It was so hot and sunny.

Everyone was in on it by the time we got back

Really neat scenery 

Very intimate and spectacular. Honest I took this.

And at the end you can dine by the riverside and swim at the same time

Here are the pictures of this spectacular place. If you ever get a chance to come to Turkey you have to come to Olu Deniz, it will be your paradise, and to Saklikent gorge, a truly beautiful nature place that you can completely interact with. We had a blast.

Bodrum and Chores

Bombs away in Bodrum

We had heard a lot about Bodrum and what a beautiful spot it was to see and in looking up the site found the Castle of St Peter there. That is a crusader castle from the era of the Knights Templar in Tomar which has been converted in use now as the underwater nautical archaeological museum, and reported the worlds largest.

About Anchors

Lead anchor circa 1st century AD

Drawing of 1st anchors and a stone anchor

Wooden Anchor

Capturing the works of nautical archaeology pioneer Dr. George Bass from the USA, this site was very good with the remains of a 12 century wreck in a special housed chamber, and many artefacts that have been recovered from dive sites. This is definitely a site worth visiting. It illustrates things like how boats went from an ancient way of construction to more modern era construction techniques, and the same for anchor construction, dating from a large stone that would have a hole in it to a stone with 2 additional holes that sharpened pegs were pounded into to grab better, to a wooden anchor with lead poured into it, to the eventual lead anchor.

Coins explanation

Coins found at Sea

The museum has so many finds that would never be found at regular sites, like glass works, wooden writing instruments that would have deteriorated on land. If it landed into the sand it was likely saved. 

Greek Pottery Found

The Salary and Inflationary Scale

Fixing the prices for items in ancient times by decree.

Many sites have been discovered by the famed sponge divers who are after natural sponges which still fetch a good price. They notify the institute out of Texas and the site is then later investigated for its remains. Similar to Jacque Cousteau but with pure archaeological mission, not financial.
Besides that Bodrum is the Banff of the Turkish Aegean sea. The number of package tourists that come here is unbearable and it has gift and gimmick shops like you wouldn’t believe. We decided this isn’t the place to find a spot on the beach, there are none left. It’s a shame we have to do two months during peak tourist season.

Ancient Amphoras used to ship fluids like wine and olive oil

Burial boxes for Ashes

Chores


Well we’re at the half way point on the trip, and with that another set of chores have crept up so we attended to them. Every piece of clothing we own had to be washed, due mainly to the amount of sweat we are generating and all the ruins sites we tramp through, so we dropped off 1 load last evening and picked them up at 10:00 pm, then the 2nd load, so we didn’t walk around naked, we dropped off today and just picked back up. There is a laundry service across the street and 10 meters down that will wash and dry and fold your clothes for 10 Tl a load, that’s $6.00 Canadian. And it let us both go off and get haircuts. Sandra’s was getting pretty long, not cut since late April, and mine not since Tony the barber of Seville. And with heat near 45C again today it was great to lose the extra hair. We also needed to shop for a couple of things that have worn out like shaving razors and underwear. We’re now ready for the second half.

Pammukale (Pah-moo-Kah-Lee)

Sunset over Pammukale

Pools formed by Deposits

 Our ride to Pammukale, (Pah-moo-Kah-Lee) Turkish for Cotton Castle  was 35C at 9:00 am and  40 Celsius when we arrived after a smooth drive covering the 180 kms on basically 4 lane road except for the last 20 kms. which was closer to goat trail.

Cotton Candy Way

Sandra on Walk up

Pammukale the town itself is on a ledge, and the Hierapolis ancient ruins site is on another ledge above the town. We checked into a pension arranged by the people in Ephesus and it was just too hot to do anything. We tried to go up to the site but the heat, closer to 45C in the sun was too much, so we sat by the pool, swam and I fell asleep for a nice nap. We decided to head up there after supper with hopefully the heat subsiding… which it did only a little.

And people coming down waterway

One thing we’ve been doing and this was no exception is, if the pension offers a meal we take it. We arrived up on the site just as the sun was setting. What is notable about this site,  Hierapolis ruins were built on an earthquake fault line, which fractured in the middle ages sinking part of the town and creating a fissure of hot water that is high in calcium carbonate. As it comes to the surface like a hot spring the carbonate evaporates leaving the calcium deposits on the rock formations and forming pools. Over centuries this has created a huge site of white cotton candy appearing calcium residue and hence Pammukale.

Us on the Walk Up

As you begin the walk up there is a security guard that tells you when you have to take off your footwear and go barefoot. Moments later you are walking in a veritable waterfall flowing down the pathway. It was eerie and neat at the same time. Water was running from everywhere in this 40C heat.
One thing about the heat as well, people lose their inhibitions about what they wear. Many wore bathing suits while around the whole site, Sandra says she saw a woman in nothing but panties and I suppose bra, in any event it was hot.

Showering with the water that falls

Giant Pools

This is really a site to see at sunset, the views and light is so much different than in the bright glare of the mid day sun. Mind you it was not without some trade-offs.

Ruins at Sunset

The Theatre

Water fall at Night

 We could not enter then sunken ruins area after sunset and though we weren’t interested in visiting the whole site of ruins, after Ephesus, the light ran out and we headed down in the dark, on a lit path. We even had a dog, stay right with us to the gate, as if our personal watch dog, then he turned around to get the next set of descending visitors.