Wells Gray - Covid relief!

 

We’re going to blame this one on Dr. Bonnie Henry or maybe Jr.(Trudeau)

 

With 3 weeks between booking and actually getting our second vaccine we need to get away and with hot weather in the forecast we activate the plan to go to Wells Gray Provincial park during spring run-off. Forecast for Kamloops, our tour centre for Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday,  ranged from 35 to 34C.

Catching the Departure Bay ferry Monday morning we had a quick shuttle over to Horseshoe Bay with some other bikers, this time chatting with a couple from North Vancouver, who had been doing a weekend tour of the south island on their bikes. The time went by so quickly!

Sea to Sky

Duffy Lake

From there the ride up to Squamish to Whistler took up the remainder of the morning and we had lunch in Whistler Village. From there it was over to Lillooet, BC. on what is known as the Duffy Lake road, is one of the hottest places in Canada and the upper ride limit of many a day trip motorcyclist from the lower mainland.

Lillooet loop

it did not disappoint. Close to 37C when we pulled in for gas. That's starting to feel too hot, a full 10 C cooler than 47 C we experienced in Turkey in 2011. The day’s ride ended in Kamloops at 35 C and we readied for our ride the next morning. Ride total for the day was 425 kms.

 

Tuesday we dressed much lighter and left for the ride up to Clearwater and into Wells Gray at 8am so temperatures were perfect for riding. The whole ride up, especially the first 60 kms. was beautiful winding along the Thompson river. 

Of course the big draw was Helmcken Falls profiled by the Knowledge Network on TV. but Spahats Falls is the first within the park.

We couldn't believe the canyon Spahats Falls is in. Apparently this area was formed as a result of volcanic activity some 200-400,000 yrs ago and then covered by a Glacier which thawed 10,000 yrs ago. Since then, the canyons have formed based on the wear of the water running over and through the lava rock which is much softer.

Awe inspiring to say the least. While smaller in size you are closer to it and it feels more intimate. You can see in the canyon shot (top right) where the viewpoint is to look back at the Falls and out towards to Clearwater river which is fed by these and the other creeks and rivers. (Click on any pic to view full screen)

Then we are off to Helmcken Falls but just before the turnoff for Helmcken is Dawson Falls and a one lane wooden bridge. With the spring run-off the river raging as it is right now that scene was impressive to say the least. Of course Helmcken didn’t disappoint even with such high expectations, so it was a very good day.

Helmcken, compared to Niagara

 

After photos and a picnic lunch we decided to head back to Kamloops as we had booked the hotel pool and spa. With Covid they are still keeping small groupings.

Mc Lure Ferry

But we still had plenty of time and I saw the sign for the McLure ferry so I doubled back to drive down to see what kind of ferry it was. For many years when hauling our sailboat to the coast we had seen the sign for this ferry.It crosses the N Thompson river. 

Well as it was hot again today 35C and the river high we arrived at the ferry ‘terminal’.

McLure Ferry terminal

There appears to be no-one around. Huh!

As I'm taking picx of this tied up old ferry, kind of a wood platform with an engine and cables, I hear a voice from back in the trees call out  "Want a ride?". I finally associate the voice to a guy laid back in a small screened hut in the trees overlooking the ferry ramp. It was right out of Tom Sawyer, tucked in the shade letting the river run by hotter than ever.

 

After a bit of discussion given the sketchy appearance we conclude that it can’t be worse than the Greek ferries, after all BC Ferry Corp. operates it. You can see the bustling ferry terminal on the other side!

The ferry captain (hahaha) said today was ‘dead’ but yesterday he did 100 trips, all full! The road into Kamloops from here is smaller and more windy but very scenic and currently Trans Mountain is busy with pipe installation along that side of the Thompson river.

We got back for our 1 hr pool and spa reservation use of the hotel pool. Imagine getting the hotel pool for yourself! It was a very good day made even better when we went out for Greek food at Dorian's. Truly a day trip to remember.

We'd highly recommend travelling here to see this natural beauty of our country's landscape. The town of Clearwater is nearby with most facilities. And North Thompson Prov. park offers excellent camping before entering the park, so for those with trailers you can get a spot and then drive in.

There are campsites within Wells Gray park itself but many of them are set back from the main road.

Wells Gray is also a huge park with the paved road ending at Helmcken Falls but a gravel road continuing north to Clearwater lake and beyond.

Please excuse the orientation of the attached video (fixed). It is a clip taken of Helmcken Falls and I had the camera in Portrait orientation to capture the whole falls.

How to 1. Determine Optimum Tire Pressures 2. Maximize tire life 3. Avoid uneven wear

How to -    1. Determine Optimum tire pressures 

                  2. Extend tire life 

                  3. Avoid uneven wear

Motorcycle tire wear and longevity is affected by a number of factors, including;

1.  speed, 
2. riding style, 
3. surfaces, 
4. load factors, 
5. correct/incorrect installation methods 
6. and tire pressures.

Obviously the owner/rider is the only one to effectively determine what could be affecting their tire wear.

Heat is the enemy of all tire compounds, and there is a simple method to determine whether you have excessive heat or it’s within acceptable limits. Those limits are also simple to determine if they are being exceeded. Here’s how.

• Start with your tires in a cold state (generally 1st thing in the morning) and using a verified accurate dial type pressure gauge inflate your tire to the manufacturer suggested pressure. Mark both front and rear tire pressures down on a piece of paper with a C-cold.
• Load your motorcycle up for the conditions you will be under. For instance, my wife and I and our loaded luggage were all on the bike.
• Ride like you would normally under those conditions for an hour, at the speeds and road surface conditions you normally do to heat up your tires.
• Stop and immediately take your tire pressures both front and rear and record them on that same piece of paper. Mark them with an H-hot
• Using a calculator determine if your hot tire pressure stayed within a 5-7% variance from cold. If it exceeded the 7% increase your tires are experiencing excessive heat.

Example: 5% variance Cold 41 PSI multiplied by 1.05 =43.05 PSI HOT

                7% variance Cold 41 PSI  X 1.07 = 44 PSI HOT

This is the 5-7% variance method Michelin technicians passed on while we were in Europe.

We ride a Vstrom 1000. Our friends with similar load factors were riding an original Super Tenere 750 running the same size tires front and rear and riding in identical conditions. They had followed the Michelin tech. recommendations. We used their cold tire pressures as a start point

42 PSI front

47 PSI rear.

I thought they were too high but tried it for the test period. I saw 50 PSI/rear after 1 hr. and I smiled and have never looked back. Ride, handling and tire wear all improved.

We no longer experience front tire cupping or premature tire wear. I get 22,000 kms on a rear tire and 38-40,000 kms on a front tire.  

Fuel economy has improved slightly but definitely is more consistent, and there was a noticeable improvement in handling and confidence in leaning the bike through corners. 

Essentially the tire held it's shape better and there was no squirm.

Matter of fact, our front had a bit of cupping that actually raised the initial conversation and the experiment, and actually corrected it’s wear in the next 2,000 kms. after changing.

Of course as stated at the outset you need to analyze all the factors. Reducing load, speed, or correcting a misaligned rear wheel will also impact the variables in the formula.

It’s based on this formula for Volume, Pressure and Temperature.  

PV = nRT  

This link provides much more detail. Table of Thermodynamic Equations

Use a 'verified' dial or digital tire pressure gauge that compares with a tire shops quality tools like this one for accuracy.

Following Us, here is a non motorcycle trip post

Queensland; from Brisbane to Cape Tribulation

Besancon, Moselkern, and Returning to our Roots

The Citadel

Besancon France

Next day we moved on to Besancon since on previous trips we'd see the “Citadel” on a hill over the town. We walked up to it and while it was interesting, and a WHS, we found an ancient gate dating back to approximately 175 AD, built in honor of Marcus Aurelius’ far more intriguing.

Marcus Arelius Gate

To think the Roman Empire extended this far in 175 AD. This is a beautiful town in eastern France we’d highly recommend people visit. We also had one of the best Mussels and Fries we’ve ever had by using Google Maps and Google Plus and following directions to a place that looked deserted but was a very good restaurant.

Moselkern and Roots

On the move again we arrive in Moselkern and hike to Burg Eltz. If you said we’ve been here before you’d be correct. Back in 2004 we visited Moselkern and Burg Eltz and we wanted to get back to funky back country villages and scenery. Here we hike back into the Castle for the picturesque walk that it is, and later go to a nearby winery and purchase an amazing bottle of Riesling wine from this Mosel region. The wine is so good in fact we drive back to the village to purchase another bottle. As we talk later we comment that this has taken us back to our roots of how we have traveled in the past.

Burg Eltz

Our accommodations aren't a 4 star hotel, they are a Gastehof on a back street in Moselkern,owned by Fam. Heirlich with very comfortable beds, and feather comforters that keep you warm, and no noise except for the church bells at 7:00 am. At any moment you can just turn back over and go back to sleep. Travel doesn’t need to be any more comfortable than this! And a typical hearty German breakfast and he explains that what you don't eat to make sandwiches with to 'picnic' later. Hard to argue with that!

As we walk to Burg Eltz , a 7 km round trip and later along the Mosel river in the beautiful Sunday sun Sandra says to me, "You know, we still could have done even this trip with the bike". And you know she is right.

Volendam

As we finish our trip in Volendam we are treated to another spectacular day. We are at a 4 star hotel within easy access to the old town. Weather is still holding at 14C and sunny!

Van Der Valk Hotel view Volendam

Statue of Small boy looking at cats in a window.

What trip to Holland doesn't include a photo of a windmill

Annecy Region

Lacets High in French Alps

Last year we came to the Annecy region for the first time and really enjoyed the beauty of it.  This time it was to use a great hotel we had found to stage a re-visit to the LACETS from the 2015 Tour de France, and have a picnic there at a place we knew. It just so happened a local bike club was riding by at the time we were there.

Popular since Tour De France came through

On the return trip to Annecy we saw a Chateau in the distance, and drove to it. It was Chateau Miolans a chateau that later became a prison for celebrity prisoners like the Marquis de Sade. On the road to Albertville, so interesting when you gunkhole.

Chateau Miolans

ZERMATT and the Matterhorn

The Matterhorn

In all of time we have ridden Europe we have never been to Zermatt and the Matterhorn. Last year we had it scheduled if weather permitted, and it didn’t so this year we followed the weather and a nice window opened at just the right time for us to seize it; so we did.

The drive from Mennagio to Domodossola was extremely difficult since it crosses back and forth between Italy and Switzerland and roads are in many case 1 lane in width for a couple of kms. All the time around some difficult terrain, but we made it to Tasch, the base of getting to Zermatt and the Matterhorn. We arrived just early enough to be able to do our ascent and hike down that afternoon, under crystal clear blue skies, absolutely no cloud and excellent temperatures. The 1 ½ hr descent was a lot tougher than expected though with our calves and thigh muscles burning a lot then and today.

Sandra on the Descent

On our drive to Martigny in southern western Switzerland today we marveled at the orderly way that Swiss have their vineyards. It is almost to the point that if you pick a grape it will have a serial number on it. We finally buy a bottle of Cote du Rhone red wine to enjoy as a salute to this beautiful region.

Lake Como

Almost same picture as 10 years ago Hedges are taller is all

After a great meal at the Locanda de Convento, the very best Gnocchi I have had, though the Hungarian Bistro’s was superb as well, and an overnight stay there, we drove across the top of Italy and headed to Mennagio on Lake Como. A nice lunch on a vista overlooking the lake and then Gelato in Mennagio we headed just west of town to a hotel we had stayed at 10 years earlier. 

That story is so memorable for us since it was truly “a dark and stormy night”. 

We had on that occasion around the 22 May 2006, chosen to ride over the Gotthard Pass from Switzerland into Italy. Rain turned to snow, the Gotthard was closed and we detoured with the rental moto to take a lower pass that snow hadn’t accumulated on. Because of the storm everything had closed down, no gas stations and I was running out. The trek from Lugano to Mennagio I always characterized as driving inside a firehose, super dark and wet. 

Finally we saw the lights of this hotel and before we ran out of gas we pulled off for the night. Soaked, the hotel staff asked if we had eaten since their kitchen was closing and it was about 8:30 pm. They prepared a great meal for us that night and the next day we had a splendid breakfast before seeing Lake Como for the first time. 3 weeks later crossing back over on a more eastern pass we saw snow still piled up on the side of the road. They explained that the snow of 22 May had closed the passes for nearly 3 weeks and they had just re-opened.

The weather was so nice that we sat out at the pool for the remainder of the day and again ate supper there before heading to bed and the Matterhorn the next day.