The Tour De France Getting there and the Experience

Events and Links- Route De Grand Alps and the TDF Updated July 20

Peleton just before the start

KRY'S BIG GUY at 0730 riding strong

Sandra and I since we started our motorcycle travels have always stitched together events and World Heritage Sites (WHS) with super scenic motorcycle or sports car routes to get from one event to another. Some of the most important maps we have used are a series from ADAC in Germany and they are the Route des Grandes Alpes (RDGA) series.

So as we quickly planned this 50th anniversary trip, Aostatal and Rhone-Alpen were the two maps to understand how the Tour De France (TDF) was leveraging these spectacular routes in their stages. The Schweiz series was used for the 1st part of our trip from Lindau, thru Chur to Splugen and beyond. You can search if you like our blog posts for other great rides. Here's a grouping we did in 2011. Go here.

On leaving Levanto we hit the autostrada A12 to Genoa and then NW on A7, and A21 to get us back into the scenic Italian and French Alps. We exited near Susa on SS25 and headed over Frances' Col du Mt. Cenis and immediately we were struck by the beauty of this incredible road and plenty of motorcycles plying their way in either direction. It was hot at 35C so the waterfalls were plentiful. 

On the French side of the Alps we then headed to Modane on a route we had previously done but in the other direction in 2011. The scenery just kept feeding us 'Oh wow" moments as we saw cliff jumping para gliders take off from stunning peaks. As we neared the Lacets we began recording the TDF route closure times as we strategized how to see the most we could see of Stage 11 on Wed. July 13th. https://youtu.be/Vf9znx-N990

When we arrived at our Ibis Hotel in Chambery for the evening we were met with TDF support team vehicles in the parking lot and this morning we took the opportunity to have a 6 am breakfast with many of those same support teams as they headed to start the stage.

We headed first to Albertville by back tracking on what we had researched would be the start route, from a little village called Aiton on D925, just off D1006. I spotted what ultimately would be our set-up location, a small farmers trail on an outside corner on 925, but first we wanted to see what the Stage 11 set-up location

Paddock

would look like. We arrived there by 0730, and actually drove into the paddock for the teams before being asked to leave. Yeah it was still early!

We walked back into the staging area and took pictures of the Albertville Olympic plaza erected for the '92 Olympics

Olympic Plaza

. Side note, we had taken the kids there in '91 on the lead up to the 92 Olympics that Kurt Browning wouldn't make.

Just a Short ride today!

Waving the Flag

Then we headed back to Aiton since that was where everything would start and so it did. As we waited the road closure would be important to secure and that was done at 0930.

About 1000 we had 4 of Frances fighter jets fly directly overhead of us. What a rush! So fast through the mountains we didn't get the chance to photo them.

Shortly after, the race sponsors began their pass along the route throwing promotional items to the watchers. We made a great haul!

Then the support teams passed along the route to take up positions

and finally, shortly after 1200 hrs the Peleton arrived for the start.

The Stage 11 Peleton pre-start

What's so impressive about their arrival is that they are virtually intact with all of the teams and riders in close quarters. You experience the air being pushed towards you and past you as they speed by at about 40 kph.

We were so delighted to have planned and experienced as much as we did see this time. It will last in our memories forever. So these last three days couldn't have been more perfect, with riding the Cinque Terre to driving the Alps and now getting to see the TDF again.

ANd here is the link to the highlights from Stage 11.

And tomorrow another part of the RDGA's awaits.

Riding the Cinque Terre

Corniglia

 Our hosts in Levanto after learning of our experience riding our Vstrom mentioned that they had one as well. Also a 1000 but of the 2nd generation. When I asked to see it, Corrado did one better, he offered to let me take it for a ride. 

Bad mistake! He may never get it back while I'm in Italy. 

First I took it for a short ride and when I came back Sara suggested I needed to ride a bit more. So I suggested I'd see if Sandra felt comfortable without our normal riding gear on and we arranged to take it the next day.

Well Sandra agreed and at first was a bit hesitant but got into perfect riding form in no time flat. She's quite proud of it and said to me "See I've still got it!". Yes you do dear, yes you do!

We headed out on the Strada Nationale Cinque Terre (SP370) from Levanto. Traffic was light on this narrow mountain road and the panoramic scenery amazing. I had forgotten how beautiful it was. Then where in a previous ride years before we stayed to the left and went inland, we stayed right towards Vernazza and Manarola onward to La Spezia. The scenery got even better from a panorama standpoint.

What stood out so much were the tiered mountain sides for grapes. And then Corniglia popped out into the ocean. As one of the 5 towns it is the only one not directly on the water.

Us on other side of Corniglia

We continued south passing over Manarola

Mechanical grape rancher on track (Manorola)

Grape Rancher

and Rio Maggorie and then arriving in La Spezia where we headed out to Porto Venere,

Porto Venere

a WHO site for it's ancient castle. It is a HUGE tourist attraction as well and a Cruise Ship stop. 

The beaches are well used there as well.

Black Sailboat

Busy Beach

La Spezia Cruise Ship Stop

See, I still have GOT IT!

After numerous stops for pictures and sight seeing we headed back to Levanto with our appetite whetted for more motorcycle travel. Next time hopefully on our own, again!

Is Sardegna really in Italy?

As we left Mennagio for Genoa you follow Lake Como on the west side on SS340. It is the slower side of the lake with the highway running through all the small villages. So as modern day transport trucks try moving building products to locations they encounter many 18th century roads and turns. Beautiful from a sightseeing standpoint, not so much otherwise. We'd chosen this route since we had a day to drive the 250 kms to Genoa, and the alternative is the Autostrada which runs through Milan. Avoiding Milan was high on our list as well. So taking the back highways allowed us to do both until a section close to Genoa where a landslide that happened in February was being repaired the Italian way. Which means block the road and 1 man works on it until it's done or retirement. Neither happened during our time there.

We had our challenges on arrival at the Port which we've been to many times before, but eventually arrived and boarded our GNV ferry.

Genoa Dock on leaving

Apparently the Italian's are having the same staffing issues as us, so our 13 1/2 hr. trip, plus nearly 2 hrs to load and 1.5 hrs to unload to could  be tacked together. 

We were greeted by Ingo and Patricia in Porto Torres, Sardegna and drove back into Alghero

Touring Old Town

where we enjoyed a Cappuccino and pastry

Cappuccino on the dock Old Town

and caught up for awhile before heading to their 'new' home. If you've ever watched House Hunters International, they are living that theme right now. They've bought a beautiful small acreage 4 kms outside Alghero, a Spanish settlement for centuries before becoming part of Italy. The previous owner had built two homes on it and a grove of olive trees, and fruit trees as well. 

Now, it will be time for Patricia to mold the future of the place which has 'good bones' to start with. It was such a privilege for us to have them  invite us their first guests.

View across the valley from our dining table

The setting and view is beautiful
and with the weather in the mid-30's each day and evenings cooling to 22-23C we were able to eat all our meals together at a large table with the view as a backdrop. And when the night sky appeared we were able to watch not only the stars come out but watch multiple satellites pass overhead each night.

With Ingo still doing engineering work the next day Sandra and I took the time to head out to Capo Caccia,

Capo Caccia Spectacular Views

a point some 20 kms out that encompasses 2 more bays besides the one Alghero is in. As part of the Spanish occupation of the island, they had built a series of Towers to warn the Fortress in Alghero of attacks. So in the mid-30's heat we visited one as well as a Neghera dating back to 1500-500 BC. 

Neghera 1500-500 BC

Capo Caccia Rock Islet

The Bays, the little one was the beach we swam from.

Tower Bello and Sandra in 34C

But the enticing nature of the warm water and a beach attracted us and we cut short our tour to change into our bathing suits and enjoy some swimming, snorkeling and beach time before heading back. The next day Ingo and Patricia came along as tour guides and we enjoyed a trip on a 'motorcycle' perfect highway that gripped the west coast down to Bosa

Bosa with river Temo in Background

where we had lunch in the town square and later visited Monteleone inland. 35C was the hottest it got that day. 

On July 1st, Canada Day Sandra and I put up our banner and Sandra prepared a meal more in keeping with Canadian traditions. Of course drinks were had as well.

Happy July 1st (Canada Day) 

Our final day was enjoying more beach time in Alghero before heading out to Olbia early in the following morning to catch the ferry to Piombino on the mainland. As we left Alghero at 4:40 am the disco's on the north end of town were just closing. definitely a party place in the summer!

Such a different experience in Olbia with the ferry running exactly on time and efficient we recalled Ingo's comment that Sardinian's don't really operate like Italians. That certainly was our experience.

And Happy Birthday to Ingo as well1

It's Fun Again!

 

It's fun again!

It’s amazing how the pandemic has been so pervasive to the psyche of people after two years. 

What woke us up to it was the desire to break our routine of the past 25 months realizing that we had burnt the last two years of our marriage in a pandemic environment and with our 50th anniversary fast approaching we wanted to do something worthy of the occasion.

So within a few hours we hatched a viable plan to celebrate and Sandra named Levanto as the place she wanted to celebrate our 50th. Not that we were married there, or actually celebrated an anniversary right there, but we definitely have celebrated a lot of anniversaries while traveling in Europe and Asia. As a piece of trivia if you search our blogs email us with how many and where we've celebrated our anniversaries.

Working on trying to tie all of the logistics together went pretty well. But planning is one thing, actioning it another…. So here goes!

Hearing how Air Canada and other carriers are having problems with logistics we anticipated it and booked the Maple Leaf lounge and that was well worth it. With our priority tickets we were off the plane quickly and our bags were some of the first delivered in Frankfurt. That put us through customs quickly and Heiko was there to meet us. It’s been 6 years since we last saw Heiko in person and it was great to visit and spend time together. Unfortunately jet lag forced some ‘nap’ interruptions but the pandemic downtime had Heiko develop more home cooking skills and we had a great Pesto pasta supper the 1st night and we all went to the Brahaus the 2nd night, a hot and gorgeous evening in a biergarten. Yes I know we look tired, but we are seriously jet-lagged!

Now to claim the rental car. While Rick Steve’s site has been slow with pandemic updates I focused on finding reasonably priced rental cars and wanted to ensure actually getting it since there wasn't time to ship the bike back to Europe! This trip will again determine whether do it again or not.

The best service and prices came from auto-europe.ca, a Canadian based aggregator of car rentals with Hertz and Europ-car, their most reasonable vehicles. While I booked with Hertz, a new model Opel Astra we actually got an Opel Crossland, a small SUV vehicle that is the fruit of Opel becoming part of Peugeot. The vehicle is quite comfortable, excellent in handling mountain roads, and the fuel economy is a huge bonus. Here’s where the snobbery of Top Gear is to be discounted. The engine punches way above it’s weight and while the interiors are basic the vehicle works with huge suitcase storage, exactly what is needed. We also booked from the Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof instead of the airport for pickup, saving huge money there and paid in Canadian funds in Canada avoiding the currency surcharges on your card.

After picking it up on time we drove the 420 kms to Lindau, DE, a beautiful tourist town on Lake Constance (Bodensee). The weather devolved into a stormy evening so our planned walk was set aside. There was a McD’s close by but I had remembered da Pietro, a pizzeria and amazingly found my way there without directions. Simple thin crust prosciutto and mushroom pizza, with wine, and their house seasoned olive oils in a beautiful setting was amazing and really made a beautiful end to our first day on the road.

Saturday broke sunny and hot, we seemed to finally settle into the new time zones at 9 hrs. ahead of back home and the hotel we stayed at had a superb breakfast room spread. We ventured out Saturday morning before leaving to see the signature lighthouse that marks the harbor of Lindau, Germany.

We crossed immediately into Austria on the lake and then into Switzerland and stayed on the non-vignette roads, Hwy 13 and 3 getting through Chur to stopping in the Viamala canyon, see this link with photos from one of previous trips, to have lunch and enjoy the canyon once again as we have so many other times on motorcycle. This 1st full day made us both realize how much more the motorcycle adds to the travel day's enjoyment. Over the Splugen pass once again and onto Mennagio, so 4 countries in 1 day, where we arrive at one of our favorite hotels. The pool was busy given that it was sunny and 31C, but people gave up loungers so we could enjoy the end of a beautiful day there in the pool. As well, a cancellation allowed us to have a fabulous supper in the hotel, a 3 star family business, that we found back in 2006 on a dark and stormy night. The Merloni’s have been so kind to us over our various visits.

Since we wanted to spend a few days here Sandra had found some hikes for us to do and today, Sunday June 26th we set out to hike up to La Crocetta under a bit of overcast but warm morning.

The round trip hike was just under 8 kms with some pretty good elevation changes of course to get these amazing views over Lake Como, Menaggio, Bellagio, Como and Lecco.

The cross is placed on the high mountain viewpoint just a few 100 mtrs. above a church altar and a bunker that serves as a Sacrarium in memoriam to all the fallen Mennagio soldiers from WW1. What a view is an understatement!

Wells Gray - Covid relief!

 

We’re going to blame this one on Dr. Bonnie Henry or maybe Jr.(Trudeau)

 

With 3 weeks between booking and actually getting our second vaccine we need to get away and with hot weather in the forecast we activate the plan to go to Wells Gray Provincial park during spring run-off. Forecast for Kamloops, our tour centre for Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday,  ranged from 35 to 34C.

Catching the Departure Bay ferry Monday morning we had a quick shuttle over to Horseshoe Bay with some other bikers, this time chatting with a couple from North Vancouver, who had been doing a weekend tour of the south island on their bikes. The time went by so quickly!

Sea to Sky

Duffy Lake

From there the ride up to Squamish to Whistler took up the remainder of the morning and we had lunch in Whistler Village. From there it was over to Lillooet, BC. on what is known as the Duffy Lake road, is one of the hottest places in Canada and the upper ride limit of many a day trip motorcyclist from the lower mainland.

Lillooet loop

it did not disappoint. Close to 37C when we pulled in for gas. That's starting to feel too hot, a full 10 C cooler than 47 C we experienced in Turkey in 2011. The day’s ride ended in Kamloops at 35 C and we readied for our ride the next morning. Ride total for the day was 425 kms.

 

Tuesday we dressed much lighter and left for the ride up to Clearwater and into Wells Gray at 8am so temperatures were perfect for riding. The whole ride up, especially the first 60 kms. was beautiful winding along the Thompson river. 

Of course the big draw was Helmcken Falls profiled by the Knowledge Network on TV. but Spahats Falls is the first within the park.

We couldn't believe the canyon Spahats Falls is in. Apparently this area was formed as a result of volcanic activity some 200-400,000 yrs ago and then covered by a Glacier which thawed 10,000 yrs ago. Since then, the canyons have formed based on the wear of the water running over and through the lava rock which is much softer.

Awe inspiring to say the least. While smaller in size you are closer to it and it feels more intimate. You can see in the canyon shot (top right) where the viewpoint is to look back at the Falls and out towards to Clearwater river which is fed by these and the other creeks and rivers. (Click on any pic to view full screen)

Then we are off to Helmcken Falls but just before the turnoff for Helmcken is Dawson Falls and a one lane wooden bridge. With the spring run-off the river raging as it is right now that scene was impressive to say the least. Of course Helmcken didn’t disappoint even with such high expectations, so it was a very good day.

Helmcken, compared to Niagara

 

After photos and a picnic lunch we decided to head back to Kamloops as we had booked the hotel pool and spa. With Covid they are still keeping small groupings.

Mc Lure Ferry

But we still had plenty of time and I saw the sign for the McLure ferry so I doubled back to drive down to see what kind of ferry it was. For many years when hauling our sailboat to the coast we had seen the sign for this ferry.It crosses the N Thompson river. 

Well as it was hot again today 35C and the river high we arrived at the ferry ‘terminal’.

McLure Ferry terminal

There appears to be no-one around. Huh!

As I'm taking picx of this tied up old ferry, kind of a wood platform with an engine and cables, I hear a voice from back in the trees call out  "Want a ride?". I finally associate the voice to a guy laid back in a small screened hut in the trees overlooking the ferry ramp. It was right out of Tom Sawyer, tucked in the shade letting the river run by hotter than ever.

 

After a bit of discussion given the sketchy appearance we conclude that it can’t be worse than the Greek ferries, after all BC Ferry Corp. operates it. You can see the bustling ferry terminal on the other side!

The ferry captain (hahaha) said today was ‘dead’ but yesterday he did 100 trips, all full! The road into Kamloops from here is smaller and more windy but very scenic and currently Trans Mountain is busy with pipe installation along that side of the Thompson river.

We got back for our 1 hr pool and spa reservation use of the hotel pool. Imagine getting the hotel pool for yourself! It was a very good day made even better when we went out for Greek food at Dorian's. Truly a day trip to remember.

We'd highly recommend travelling here to see this natural beauty of our country's landscape. The town of Clearwater is nearby with most facilities. And North Thompson Prov. park offers excellent camping before entering the park, so for those with trailers you can get a spot and then drive in.

There are campsites within Wells Gray park itself but many of them are set back from the main road.

Wells Gray is also a huge park with the paved road ending at Helmcken Falls but a gravel road continuing north to Clearwater lake and beyond.

Please excuse the orientation of the attached video (fixed). It is a clip taken of Helmcken Falls and I had the camera in Portrait orientation to capture the whole falls.

How to 1. Determine Optimum Tire Pressures 2. Maximize tire life 3. Avoid uneven wear

How to -    1. Determine Optimum tire pressures 

                  2. Extend tire life 

                  3. Avoid uneven wear

Motorcycle tire wear and longevity is affected by a number of factors, including;

1.  speed, 
2. riding style, 
3. surfaces, 
4. load factors, 
5. correct/incorrect installation methods 
6. and tire pressures.

Obviously the owner/rider is the only one to effectively determine what could be affecting their tire wear.

Heat is the enemy of all tire compounds, and there is a simple method to determine whether you have excessive heat or it’s within acceptable limits. Those limits are also simple to determine if they are being exceeded. Here’s how.

• Start with your tires in a cold state (generally 1st thing in the morning) and using a verified accurate dial type pressure gauge inflate your tire to the manufacturer suggested pressure. Mark both front and rear tire pressures down on a piece of paper with a C-cold.
• Load your motorcycle up for the conditions you will be under. For instance, my wife and I and our loaded luggage were all on the bike.
• Ride like you would normally under those conditions for an hour, at the speeds and road surface conditions you normally do to heat up your tires.
• Stop and immediately take your tire pressures both front and rear and record them on that same piece of paper. Mark them with an H-hot
• Using a calculator determine if your hot tire pressure stayed within a 5-7% variance from cold. If it exceeded the 7% increase your tires are experiencing excessive heat.

Example: 5% variance Cold 41 PSI multiplied by 1.05 =43.05 PSI HOT

                7% variance Cold 41 PSI  X 1.07 = 44 PSI HOT

This is the 5-7% variance method Michelin technicians passed on while we were in Europe.

We ride a Vstrom 1000. Our friends with similar load factors were riding an original Super Tenere 750 running the same size tires front and rear and riding in identical conditions. They had followed the Michelin tech. recommendations. We used their cold tire pressures as a start point

42 PSI front

47 PSI rear.

I thought they were too high but tried it for the test period. I saw 50 PSI/rear after 1 hr. and I smiled and have never looked back. Ride, handling and tire wear all improved.

We no longer experience front tire cupping or premature tire wear. I get 22,000 kms on a rear tire and 38-40,000 kms on a front tire.  

Fuel economy has improved slightly but definitely is more consistent, and there was a noticeable improvement in handling and confidence in leaning the bike through corners. 

Essentially the tire held it's shape better and there was no squirm.

Matter of fact, our front had a bit of cupping that actually raised the initial conversation and the experiment, and actually corrected it’s wear in the next 2,000 kms. after changing.

Of course as stated at the outset you need to analyze all the factors. Reducing load, speed, or correcting a misaligned rear wheel will also impact the variables in the formula.

It’s based on this formula for Volume, Pressure and Temperature.  

PV = nRT  

This link provides much more detail. Table of Thermodynamic Equations

Use a 'verified' dial or digital tire pressure gauge that compares with a tire shops quality tools like this one for accuracy.