Kissamos and Tertsa

Christina Beach Hotel pool

Kissamos is at the top northwest corner of Crete. Crete is the largest Greek island and a strategic place from a military background. Hitler during WW2 met tremendous resistance here from the Greeks and the allies used it in the fight against Rommel in Egypt. Kissamos is a laid back beach town with access to the west side beaches and is only 38 kms north of Chania. It offers a great alternate location to stay while visiting. We also found out that once a week (Thursday) a ferry goes from here to Gythio on the Peloponnese peninsula and  is a day ferry instead of an overnight from Heraklion to Pireaus. It is 1/3 the price, and completely bypasses the Athens corridor. It is a great alternative.

Church built into Rock Cave

Our hotel (The Christina Beach Hotel) was excellent with a top floor sea view/pool view from the room. We lazed around the pool while working out the kinks from our Samaria gorge hike and then walked 6 kms to the Port of Kissamos, where we discovered this neat Orthodox church built into a rock cave along the side of the road.

We had been invited by some HU members, Jen and Rog Preston to come and see their eco-village just above the village of Tertsa in southwestern Crete and we made our way there across the Amari valley. After a gorgeous lunch stop  on the west side of the island, facing the Libyan Sea, Libya /Egypt border being 200 kms away, we arrived at their place about 4:00 pm. 

Lunch on the Libyan Sea

Sandra Jen and Rog

The village, currently a collection of 5-6 restored ruins, is powered solely by solar and wind power with a fuel source of LP gas for cooking.

They are retired school teachers with a rich history of experience teaching in foreign countries and between drinks, and a wonderful supper prepared; we didn't stop the visiting until midnight.

They have purchased several small apartment ruins which they have rebuilt into their own residence and a guest suite, complete with Olive trees, and other fruits. They were very gracious hosts while we were there and Rog and I had so many similar hands on experiences that allowed us to instantly relate.

Many thanks for your hospitality!

Samaria Gorge

Signage at the top of the Mountain gorge

How quickly?

Each trip we plan at least one challenging hike and this year is no different. The Samaria gorge hike is in a National Park by the same name and is a gorge that drops some 1200M. from snow level in winter to sea level in about 16 kms. Probably the most technical hike we have ever done since for easily ¾ of it you have to position each step since you are walking down rocks that have become polished over time, or rough skree.

Rough trail but the there is a handrail in places

In addition, the logistics of getting to, and returning from the hike are a challenge, a special bus has to be caught from downtown Chania (only 2 per day) which takes you slightly over an hour to climb into the mountains. Then you hike down to a remote beach community that is serviced by a once daily ferry/barge that arrives at 17:30 hrs. But it may not arrive at that time, that’s just approximate. Once it arrives, as with ours it still had 2 more pickups to make along other remote beach communities before arriving in Hokra Stadion, that has a newer road into it. There you catch the last bus back to Chania. It waits until the ferry gets in and delivers its passengers. Our ferry was supposed to arrive in Hokra approximately 18:10 but didn’t arrive till 19:

Creek Crossings

30. Then you hike up a hill to the bus get on and wind another 1 ¼ hrs. back into Chania. We arrived back in Chania at 21:30 hrs. and were quite tired. Sandra and I both discussed the fact we couldn't do bus trips or transfers etc. Too much queuing, waiting, and then the rides put me to sleep. I'd never see anything, but I'd be well rested.

waterfalls

But the hike was worth it. Scenery that compares to Kootenay National Park around Radium Hot Springs, pure spring water that just emanates from the rock and is so cold, compared to the 30+ C temperatures you are hiking in. We packed in 2 ½ litres of water and splashed and drank easily another 3 litres while on the hike.

Gorge Walls

The level of expertise hiking was surprising, from some people who it seemed it was their first hike, and had some real struggles, to some who walked down like they were strolling in town. We’d recommend that people do some preparation before a hike like this and get some 7-10 km walks in, like we do around Ladysmith, a perfect training ground for this. There are many nationalities represented in the hiking entourage as well.

All Nationalities here

Samaria has been lived in since pre-historic times and there is a settlement

Settlement remains from 1200 BC

about 6 kms up the gorge from the beach that can be seen. Wild goats called Agrimli’s can be found wandering the cliffs and settlement areas today. They are the largest wild mammal on Crete.

Old Church

Once you get to the remote community there is evidence of an old castle, a bridge that is constructed very much like the Stari Most at Mostar, and an old Greek Orthodox church. High on the hill protecting the gorge are the remnants of an old castle as well.

As we leave by Ferry

The Difference Between a European Heaven and a European Hell:

In a European Heaven-

• The French are the cooks,
• The English are the police,
• The Germans are the mechanics,
• The Italians are the lovers and
• The Swiss organize everything.

In a European Hell-

• The English are the cooks,
• The Germans are the police,
• The French are the mechanics,
• The Swiss are the lovers and
• The Italians organize everything!

I wish they'd consider the Greeks in this one.

credit goes to this blog

http://signalsminusnoise.blogspot.gr/2007/08/european-heaven-hell.html

Chania

Chania is about 138 kms west and north of Heraklion and a port town of its own. It as well was a Venetian port, and is a very beautiful place. A walled city, Venetian fortress, and a waterfront that just begs to have supper at, which we have.

Heraklion Crete

Venetian Fortress in Heraklion

Situated in a bay near the centre of Crete Heraklion was a Venetian port with Fortress. It is now the Capital city for Crete and a major port and commercial centre. It still has its artifacts and has a mixed commercial and leisure marina side to it.

We took the old Town walking self-guided tour that eventually led to the museum  and entered to see some beautiful sculptures and frescoes saved and partially restored. This was free!

Sculptures from Knossos Palace

2000BC Fresco

Then after wandering around we decided to go for  a late lunch and were lucky to have selected a Greek tavern that had only Greeks ( and us) in it. The food, virtually all fish, was excellent. The place is called Tabepna Oyzepi, and is on the corner by the Venetian castle and small traffic circle there. We had our favorite grape leaf wrapped cabbage roll type things with curry and sour cream, and Sandra had the Shrimp Saganaki and I had the Mussels Saganaki. Done quite differently from each other, both were excellent. The Mussels, the largest and most tender I have had were fabulous, and then they brought fresh watermelon for dessert and Grappa, a Schnapps’ type liqueur which you drink from a shot glass, with a refillable container, ice cold, while you eat the watermelon. Amazing! Did I mention we went back and had a long nap!

Now we head for Thira ( Santorini)

Oia at dinner

Santorini is an island rich in history. First, in the 2^nd century BC it was a single island with a volcano that erupted so violently that the area directly outside the core collapsed into the Aegean Sea and 5 separate islands were formed. It is thought to be one of the possible “Atlantis” city locations. The main island now is in the shape of a crescent and it is stunning.

You first arrive at a ferry port some 1000 vertical feet below the modern day living space of Santorini and snake up a brutal little hairpin turn road to reach just outside the town of Fira (Thira).  The villages, all white, look like snow on the tops of the cliffs. From there to the northwest is the village of Oia out on the far northwestern point of the island, and to the south west the ancient site of Akrotira, where there is an archaeological dig and site to visit in place. They refer to it as the Pompeii of Greece. It is a very worthwhile site to spend time at. Also, adjacent to Akrotira is “red Beach”

Red Beach

a small cliff type beach that has red stone backdrop to it.

Halfway up the crescent on the east side is Perissa , where the famous ‘Black Beach’ is. The sand here is a black giving it its name. Apparently it is the party area of Santorini. We watched two overweight girls stroll down to the shore, and enter the water only to float around on their backs drinking Mythos ½ litre beers, and it was noon! I guess they have to draw attention to themselves one way or another. It worked.

We had chosen to stay in the Oia area, since there was a B&B that had a good review and it was the terminus point for a

Black Beach sans beach bunnies

hike that we considered doing. The B&B was full, but they recommended Maria’s Place, which is run by Anna. This is a very nice B&B run by a very hardworking lady who will do anything for you. Ask her anything about Greece and she knows about it. We’d highly recommend this place, wonderful pool and location as well.

Oia, as we found out is also the most photogenic location on the island with its steep-to stacked accommodations, a street walk done in marble, and great restaurants as well as the home of Hong Kong wedding pictures. We noticed one after another Asian couples getting photos taken  there while we visited. Anna explains that about 6 mths before the actual wedding, a group of  7 Asian couples will fly as a charter with a photographer, make-up artist, and two wedding dresses, suits and party dresses there and get their photos taken, then at the actual wedding these photos will be shown in a slideshow to everyone in attendance.

Quite windy that day

Sandra’s brother Robin commented that Santorini is very touristy, and we certainly agree, but the setting is breathtaking, a one of a kind place, and the weather save for the high winds that developed, was wonderful.

If you plan to go, plan an overnight excursion from Crete. 

Another danger that exists on Santorini is the 2 class driver system, the Greeks on one hand who are assassins behind the wheel and those who come and rent the tiny under-powered quads or micro cars and who stop and block traffic any time they perceive a possible threat. Word to the wise, know your driving capability, and if you can’t drive like them, then use their excellent public transportation system, which many do. I think I just confessed to being an assassin?? No I am not like them, but I’m not timid either.

Bells in Oia

One thing we have come to learn after making the crossing to Crete now, you cannot count on the ferries. Our 5:50 pm ferry actually began loading at 9:30 pm due to wind delays. It was a large Cat ferry (Sea-jets) and we watched earlier as another Cat ferry (Golden Blaze)

Golden Blaze fixing chafed lines see white buildings
at top of cliffs look like snow

had such a fiasco loading and leaving the port that was swamped in waves breaking all around. It broke gear, chafed through lines etc. etc.

On ours, they were a bit more organized, but as it arrived there were people who got off the ferry and kneeled down and kissed the ground. I thought OK, this is going to be a rough ride. Then the crew had to drag some passengers luggage off so they would follow since they were fearful (rightfully so), of the bouncing down ramp. Then I was instructed to be the first up the ramp and told to go fast since it would be wet. Just moments before I was readied to go up the deck it would not drop to the level of the quay, about 6-8” above then they released the hydraulics more, and I was told to go. I accelerated up to some applause only to nearly run over an Asian man who was struggling with a crew hand that came right in front of me on the top of the ramp because he did not want to get off. Fortunately I still have excellent reaction times.

The sailing to Crete was very rough with a large number of people taking and using Barf bags. Sandra sat in amusement, I read my latest Michael Connelly novel (The Poet) then napped and we arrived in Heraklion at 12:30 am. We were supposed to arrive at 8:10 pm. fortunately I had made a last minute booking and we drove to our hotel and got in bed. There is certainly benefit in being tried and true sailors. Sandra asked if we had any Rum later, her favorite drink after a hard sail.

Just ask Anna Anything

Our apartment in Blue

Stunning in the Sun

Windmills were commonplace

Drive from Prevaza to Athens (With an Ode to BC Ferries)

The drive from Pervaza to Athens requires you to drive under a part of the Med at a narrowing point on the coast. There is a large bay inboard of the Greek coastline here and it creates a very beautiful barrier to coastal access. I’m not sure when the tunnel was built but it sure is cheap to pay the toll on a moto .70 cents E instead of 3.2E for a car. Even a better discount is the Korinthos bridge, the vehicle in front paid 13.20 and we paid 2.20.

The road is marked as E55 and for a bit we seemed to be on some goat trail, not sure if the GPS took us there on a ‘shorter route’ calc or not. I did get back on the more main highway in a bit and headed on it to almost Agirnio when a free Autobahn section opened up on the way to Antirrio the north end of the bridge. We enjoyed this for a while but what was most interesting is the beautiful country that is in this area. As we got closer to the bridge a gorge opened up to the east that was every bit as gorgeous as the Red Rock Canyon near Grand Junction, Colorado.

We crossed the bridge which is always windy and then chose to drive the toll highway to get us into Athens earlier in the afternoon. This section is cheap to drive but is in disrepair so it’s not the best. This section is on the Peloponnese peninsula side and again the gorges that opened up were very pretty, another looking a lot like a larger Dinosaur Park area of Alberta.

We decided at a break in the riding to go to the ferry terminal first to get our tickets for the morning ferry, and the GPS waypoint was dead on, led me right there but the afternoon was very hot, must have been mid 30’s in Athens. Tickets 103E in hand for a 7:25 am ferry to Santorini we headed on to Glyfada where our planned hotel for the night, Blue Sky was. We had stayed here in 2011 so we’d head back again. This was the only thing that didn’t work. Theris success led to a full house so they recommended another hotel in the area, the London Hotel. We drove there,  both skeptical  and the first room they showed us on the 3^rd floor was close to a guy that looked long term and kept his door open and played music.

So we asked about a room on another floor, were showed 1 on the 4^th floor #414, which was good and we showered and changed and I filled the bike with gas, assuming that fuel prices on the islands will be expensive. We then headed to a restaurant in the downtown area of Glyfada and Sandra had stuffed peppers and tomatoes again, and I finally had Moussaka. Hit the hay at 9:25 for a 5:25 wake up call. Room was 55E, paid in advance for a rear facing room with breakfast but we had to get up before breakfast so we asked and she told us that they’d have something for us.

Sure enough at 5:45 am, we came down, the frt desk guy took us to the breakfast room, served us cold meats cheeses, fruit, yogurt and Cappuccino’s. We were very impressed. We’ll have to give the hotel a good review on Trip advisor.

Our drive to the ferry terminal went off without a hitch as well. The streets were very quiet and we got there even before the 1 hr request time, boarded and watched as the last minute rush ensued.

The ferry left exactly on time and then went to Paros first, dumping people off, whipping cars and freight off quickly and all without tying up, then loaded and off we headed to Naxos where they did the same thing. We lost a lot of passengers to Naxos, but since the ferry does a loop we picked up a fair amount as well.  Finally Ios where the ritual was once again repeated. Each of these islands are very small and rural in nature. The draw here is the remoteness and their beaches.