Switzerland - Sept. 21-23 - Lukmanier Pass and Disentis

  Lukmanier Pass and Disentis

Our last morning in Menaggio and we wake up to threatening skies. We knew they were forecast but we hoped we'd luck out like the rest of our trip and have great weather.

It was not to be. After our final breakfast at the Hotel Merloni we load the bike and head towards Lugano, Switzerland. 

This is a memorable highway for us that dates back to mid May 2006 when we rode from Colmar, France to Menaggio on a day that got colder and colder and began to snow on the Gotthard Pass. So much so, that we were turned back and had to take the Oberpal pass to Disentis and the Lukmanier Pass to Lugano. 

I always characterized that ride which turned to pouring rain once you got over the Alps, "as driving inside a firehose".

We've been in contact with Heiko as he wanted to ride the pass and meet us 1/2 way and take us to his friends place in Disentis, CH. His last report was everything was cloudy but not raining there, and with it still dry when we prepared, we hoped we'd make it unscathed.

It was not to be.

The drive along Lago di Lugano is spectacular and intimate as you drive through tunnels and galleries that constantly give you enticing glances at the beauty of the lake and surroundings. But just as we enter Lugano city limits it starts to pour. Fortunately we had inserted our rain liners in anticipation of the rain.

Things have changed dramatically from '06 as well as we head north toward Biasca, CH where we are to meet Heiko. It is basically town joined to town all the way to Bellinzona, CH. From there a stretch of 16 kms allows us to meet almost right on time with Heiko.

In Biasca, CH under threatening skies

Looking to avoid the chance of rain we decide to keep on riding to Disentis with Heiko. We aren't aware of it at the time, but we are about to have to share the road with about 30 Bovine friends, large cows that have summered in the high Swiss Alps and with it being Sept 21st and with snow in the forecast the annual parade of them down to lower pastures and barns is happening. 

We start to see 'remnants' of the cows before we actually meet up with the herd. We are ahead of some vehicles travelling in the same direction which prevents us from stopping to take our own pictures but the experience is once in a lifetime. The stock photo I've attached is just a small sample of the herd that was coming back to Disentis. There is a lead cow, and on this mountain pass road they are 2-3 across and about 30 total. They are all decorated with headresses, and the herders, 3 female and the rest men are dressed in festive costumes as well. As we pass by one cow gets out of alignment and nearly bodychecks us as we slowly pass by at 5 kph. Whew!  The cacophony of the huge bells they wear especially for this parade down the mountain is what attracts the residents of the small villages as we descend the pass to Disentis.

Cows descending the pass back to the village of Disentis,
It's an annual celebration!

The remainder of the ride is extremely scenic with many villagers along the way waiting for their parade.

We arrive in Disentis at the friends 'cabin', which is actually a 2 level top floor apartment with this stunning view out our bedroom window.

View from our bedroom balcony looking NE in the swiss Alps

After a quick lunch we head out as Heiko's friend wants to show us her town and specifically an antique train that will come in at 4:00pm. As we had come down into Disentis, what stands out is this huge Benedictine Monastery. In one form or another it has been there since the 6th century and is still active today. There is a chapel of huge dimensions for the townspeople with a stunning pipe organ and adornments.

Benedictine Monastery in Disentis
 founded in 720 and restored in 1880

Spectacular interior very similar to another Swiss cathedral

The monastery also is part of the route of St James or the Camino de Santiago as it connects to it in France. Monks actively run a hostel as part of the monastery.

Our walk through the village leads us to the train station just as the antique train arrives. 

That evening we dine out at a fantastic venison based restaurant with great food. Unfortunately the next day, which was intended to be a loop tour of 4 high mountain passes was cancelled given the fogged in conditions, rain and then some light snow so we decide to have a quiet meal in the apartment.

On Saturday, conditions are quite cold at 0 Celsius when we are about to leave

3 Muskateers

for Andermatt and in the direction of Zurich. There is snow in the air as we head over the Oberalp pass and stays cold until we dropped to about 1400 meters where some warmth begins to make its way into the air.

The remainder of the drive across Switzerland is scenic and we are in much better spirits as we cross Lake Zurich on a bridge and arrive in Singen, Germany for a night there.

Our ride back to Frankfurt and Oberursel for the most part is uneventful in much better weather with only some slow traffic areas near congested on/off ramps on the A5 autobahn.